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For that you need a full-fledged scan tool or scanner software that is up-to-date and can read both generic OBD II P0 codes as well as Toyota factory P1 codes. Such a tool is better than nothing, but it won't display any sensor values or other system data. Most inexpensive DIY code readers display codes only. To access the onboard diagnostics you need a scan tool. Warning: Do NOT touch any orange high voltage cables when working on a Prius.

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The warranty covers all of the hybrid powertrain components and high voltage battery.įor more information about California's Zero Emission Vehicle and hybrid warranty requirements, Click Here.ĪS long as your Toyota is still under warranty, it can be returned to a Toyota dealer for free repairs. In California, the hybrid system warranty is 15 years or 150,000 mile, which ever comes first. Hybrid Warranty CoverageĪn important point to keep in mind with regards to diagnosing and repairing hybrid systems is that these vehicles have an extended powertrain warranty of 8 years or 100,000 miles in all states. The other option is to subscribe to AlldataDIY, Mitchell or Chilton. The factory service information is available at for a daily subscription fee of $10, or a monthly subscription fee of $50, or a yearly subscription fee of $350 (this covers access to all Toyota/Scion and/or Lexus makes & models, by the way). But if a fault involves any of the components in the hybrid system (things like the car won't start, it stalls or doesn't run right, battery problems, etc.), diagnostics will likely require a Toyota scan tool (or aftermarket scan tool with similar software capabilities such as the MasterTech), and access to the Toyota service information. If a problem occurs with something that is not part of the hybrid system, it will set diagnostic code that corresponds to the fault and turn on the Check Engine light.

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It could be next month or next year.Auto Repair Library, Auto Parts, Accessories, Tools, Manuals & Books, Car BLOG, Links, Indexĭiagnostics on a Toyota Prius is similar to that on any other late model vehicle. My guess is that sometime in the future you will have to have the accumulator replaced. The occassional one should be overlooked as worthless as even the Toyota dealer will be confused. They have always told you to ignore all unusual sounds and drive normally until you get a steady 'idiot' light. Same as just about any system in the Prius. Until you get any one steady light you really have no problem. Then one or the other warning light illuminates. The leak in the accumulator is usually in the 'gas' side of the membrane. The brakes can be powered by either system and you get a separate warning light when the pressure is too low in either. That's the noise you hear when the electric pump comes on.

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At a certain setting the electric hydraulic pump comes on to re-establish full system pressure. There is enough pressure stored in the 'ball' by the movement of the membrane for many brake applications. The pressure is maintained by the membrane forcing the hydraulic pressure when the brakes are applied.

(Picture a ball with a membrane dividing the center.) On one side of the membrane is hydraulic brake fluid and the other an inert gas. The brakes are mainly pressurized by the accumulator.

No, this one would have no indication of a fluid loss.

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